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Most of us love to fill our homes with pets. In no time they become just like a member of the family and your home turns out to be their home too. Your pet is just like a baby who needs to be cleaned, fed, and looked after. But do you know what food and other pet supplies to buy for your pet?

Pet supplies have become a massive multi billion dollar market in the last 50 years with pet stores abounding, including a vast, ‘online pet supply store’ market. However, be careful while buying any pet supplies. Whether your pet is a dog, cat, fish, bird or any type of pet. They all need proper care and attention. So with that said, a huge factor to help narrow down where to shop, whether online or down the street, is to find knowledgeable providers of all your pet supply needs.

Here are some basic things to take into consideration regarding the supplies your pet may or may not enjoy.

Yummy Pet Food:
Where diet supplies are concerned, it is advised to use natural diets, that are preservative and chemical free with quality vitamins and nutrients. Using natural diet supplies will minimize the probability of any health problems like allergies and digestive disorders, keeping your pet healthy and in high spirits. Using natural diet supplies also helps your pet to live longer. Consult with your veteranarian for precise requirements for you exact pet. Afford them with their own bowl to eat food and drink water too.

Pet Sleeping Desires:
Pets such as dogs and cats like cozy comfortable places to lie down and call their own. So why not afford them with their own cat bed or dog bed? Take some time to do some research into pet beds. One may be cheaper, but the one that costs more is usually better constructed for the long run, easier to keep clean and the best for your pets comfort. I’ve found my own pets like to be up off the floor so cat perches and a pet bed off the floor may get used more frequently than the simple ones on the floor.

Pet Grooming:
Your pets grooming is also very important and the right supplies are a must. For example a dull nail clipper could cause pain and discomfort when trimming nails. Grooming not only helps your pets overall look, but helps prevent disease and promotes overall health. Just like we like to go to the salon for a hair cut most pet’s enjoy the extra attention of a day at the salon too.

Yes, Pet Clothing:
Clothing your pet can be a lot of fun, but it can also be practical. Dog shoes for example, can protect your dogs feet from some harsh climates. Certain breeds have more sensitive pads on their feet and can be more prone to freezing. Look for a shoe that has a reputation for staying on well as some can slip off easily. Sweaters and are variety of other garments have now been made for pets as well. Much of which you might find unpractical and mostly for show. For example the little pink leather jacket for a small dog like a chiwowa.

Get Help With Pet Supplies:
Purchasing supplies like toys, tags, grooming supplies, even clothing can be less overwhelming to decide upon when talking to knowledgeable staff from your local pet shop or well written advice from an online pet supply store.

These pet supplies can either be bought from any pet supply store or through an online pets supply website. Take some time and do some research for the products your looking for. Also, do a search online for a wholesale pet supply business. You never know untill you look but there’s a really good chance you’ll find some superb deals out there.

With such a competivive market, you are very likely to not only find useful product information for pet supplies, but also find an affordable price range for your supplies so that each one of you can enjoy a comfortable lifestyle. Above all enjoy your pet, their for having fun with and getting away from the hustle and bustle of our daily lives.

Submitted by Chad McDonald for pet owners looking for wholesale pet supply locally or searching the net for an wholesale pet supplies.

Most one-dog owners at one time or another will ponder the thought of getting a second dog. There are many reasons for doing so. Company for the number one dog is the most common answer, while many would agree two is twice as fun.

Are you ready?

You are the proud parent of one very wonderful dog. In fact, so happy you are ready to extend the family! Before heading out on your search for number two there are a few questions you need to ask first.

Is your dog bored?

Boredom in dogs is a common problem for obtaining a second mate. Our canine friends are pack animals. Just like humans, they need company, socialising, mental and physical stimulation and all the care and treatment required to keep them happy and healthy.

A bored dog will develop bad habits such as digging, barking, escaping and aggression. If you are worried that your dog is bored, the first step is to ensure that you are providing enough environmental richness. This can include appropriately placed ‘home-alone’ toys, plenty of exercise and time together for mental stimulation such as training and socialising. If your dog is displaying aggression, do not rush out and get another dog as a companion.

Pack problems

Unlike humans, dogs live by the golden rule of ‘pack structure’. This is a canine version of a pecking order, and it is the core of their daily life. As humans we tend to treat our dogs as ‘human mates’, but what the dog really wants is a leader. If your dog respects you as the leader of its pack (i.e. it comes when you call, is non aggressive to adults and children) and it is well socialised, then introducing another dog will not be as problematic.

The pecking order

Some dogs are naturally dominant, while others are obviously submissive. Identifying your dog’s type is important, because as soon as you introduce another dog into the home ‘pack’ you are going to change it’s life forever.

The current dog is thus far number one in the dog pecking order of your household, but it should already know that you, the pack leader, comes first. You eat first, when you walk down the hallway the dog doesn’t block your path, and it looks to you for direction and instruction. So what happens when a new dog arrives?

Selecting the right number two

The secret to selecting the right number two is to really know your number one dog. This also means putting yourself in their ‘paws’. For example, if your number one dog is old, then it will feel threatened, and probably annoyed, with a young pup romping into its established existence. The household, especially children, will delight in the new recruit and the shift of adoration will put your existing animal into a position of unknown territory.

While it may seem insensitive to humans, dogs do not expect to be treated as equals. They live by their pack rules. When you have two dogs, or more, you need to identify which dog is acting as the pack leader, remembering that the structure can change. The pack leader should be recognised as such and you may have to adapt your habits to meet this need. The leader of the pack is usually fed first and greeted first when you arrive home, for example. The consequences of not acknowledging the pack leader, or worse, repeatedly acknowledging a submissive dog first, will lead to bickering and fighting amongst the dogs.

The right mix

Introduce the dogs to each other slowly and on neutral grounds. Once back home, supervise mealtime and follow this with a game. This will help to establish rewards for good behaviour. Once the dogs become friends it is only a matter of time before they sort out their pack differences. They will enjoy the company of each other and you really will have twice the fun!

About The Author

Paul Johnston

For lots of easy to read articles, full of useful information that is sure to help you out with your pet or pets, go to www.P-E-T-S.info. While you are there sign up for the PET NEWS email newsletter - it is FREE and packed with handy tips for pet owners.

March 1 marks the “official” beginning of flea and tick season. Are you prepared?

Fleas are the most common external parasites that affect our dogs and, although they prefer dog blood, fleas are quite happy to dine on our ankles as well. And although ticks are not as common, they are potentially more dangerous, to us and to our dogs, because they can transmit such diseases as Lyme and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Fleas and ticks thrive whenever and wherever the humidity is above 50 percent and the temperature is over 68 degrees Fahrenheit.

Diagnosing a possible flea infestation is relatively simple…your dog will scratch. Additionally, you can usually actually see the little critters, or see white and black grains, about the size of sand grains, in your dog’s coat (these are the eggs and feces of fleas). Tick infestation can only be detected by finding one or more ticks on your dog’s skin, so it’s a good idea to check for these parasites when you groom your dog several times a week. To remove a tick, use tweezers to grasp it as close as possible to your dog’s skin, and then pull it out slowly. After removing the tick, clean the bite area with an antiseptic.

While your dog’s reaction to flea infestation is usually mild (scratching, itching), other sensitivities, such as an allergy to flea saliva, bacterial skin infections and, in very small puppies anemia, can result, so it’s always good to do whatever you can to help keep your dog flea-free. Ideally, treatment should begin before the flea season begins in your area (early spring).

Since the 1980s, pharmaceutical companies have developed many new chemical treatments for controlling or preventing fleas and other external parasites, and there are some great products available today in the form of flea collars, pills, oral liquids, spray-on formulas, and special shampoos. Look for products that contain IGRs (insect growth regulators), IDIs (insect development inhibitors), neurotransmitter inhibitors, naturally occurring neurotoxins, monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs), or cell growth inhibitors.

IGRs and IDIs (for example, Program) should be used only when your dog has no fleas, so now is the perfect time to invest in these products. If your dog becomes infested with fleas, that’s when you use the topical products, such as Frontline, Advantage, or Revolution.

Remember, if a flea problem exists in your home, it is pointless to treat just your dog. Your dog’s total environment (including the carpet, your dog’s bedding, the yard, and even your car), as well as any other pets you have, must be treated in order to remove fleas in all stages of the life cycle.

Flea larvae is probably also living in your dog’s bedding, as well as any furniture where your dog likes to lounge. It does no good to just get rid of the flea itself, you’ve got to treat your dog’s environment for fleas that may be in various stages of the life cycle. A female flea lays up to 50 eggs a day, and these eggs are dislodged into your entire environment when your dog scratches, so on any given day, the fleas in your dog’s environment (your home!) could be in different stages of their life cycle.

Professional carpet treatment can be highly effective for preventing flea eggs and larvae from maturing, and many such treatments come with a one-year guarantee. Check with your carpet cleaners about such a treatment.

Fortunately, most flea and tick infestations are relatively easy to diagnose, cause little harm to our beloved dogs, and will respond to treatment. But it’s always up to us to make sure our dogs are protected.

Copyright 2006 by Lisa Pallardy.

Lisa Pallardy is the owner of http://www.BarkTalk.com an interactive site for dog lovers to find articles and information on dog training and care, post photos of their pets, and talk with other dog-lovers. She is also the mother of 6 children and lover of 3 dogs. In her spare time, she makes greeting cards from children’s artwork at http://www.MyLittleRembrandt.com

For more articles like this one on dog care and dog training, or for links to discount dog supplies, visit http://www.BarkTalk.com

Picture this. You’re late for work one day. You look at your watch and notice you have about three minutes to feed your horse before you have to leave. Plus, it seems to worsen every day. You notice your life getting busier and you have little time, if any, to spend with your horse.

Should you sell him? Should you keep him? What do you do.

It depends. If you only want a pet that eats a lot of hay, then you can keep him if it is affordable. If you want to ride him but you know you won’t have time then consider selling him. (Ouch!)

However, if you know you will eventually have time to ride then you can keep your horse “tuned up” by doing some “quick and easy to do” horse training maneuvers on him.

For instance, you have about two minutes to feed your horse before you go to work. So you rush outside and get some hay for him. Just before you feed him you get beside him and practice his backing up.

Backing him up is a great way to keep him “tuned up”. Why? You get your horse to move. When you get your horse to move you earn more and more of his respect. Getting a horse to move is using the horse’s psychology to get it in his brain that you are the boss. The chief. The head-honcho.

There are more exercises to do than just backing.

Say you have a horse that won’t come to you. The reason he won’t is likely because of fear or doesn’t trust you.

But for the next few weeks go feed your horses with a halter and brush in hand. Horses love to be brushed. Once you get it in his head that seeing the halter means pleasure you will almost never have trouble getting him to come to you.

Here’s a good one many people don’t know. When you go to feed your horses whistle loudly if you can. If you whistle a certain way and if you’re consistent in the way you do it…then you can usually call horses in from an open field and they’ll come a runnin’.

Want another tip? Try this.

Before you feed your horse, approach him and pet on his withers. Assuming you are standing on his left side poke your finger into his flank (around the rib/hip area). Hold it there. If he doesn’t move, increase the pressure and hold it. If he doesn’t move, increase the pressure even more and hold it. Repeat this process until he moves away from the pressure.

When he moves reward him with a petting on the forehead. Do it a couple more times then repeat on his right side.

Doing this teaches the horse a couple things. First, it teaches him to move away from pressure. Since pressure is a tool we use to communicate with the horse, we want him to know how to move away from it.

Secondly, you are doing ground work of teaching your horse to move his hindquarters away from you. Thus, when you sit on the saddle and apply pressure with your boot in that same area, you have primed him to move away from that pressure - he moves his rear end away from your foot.

This is a tremendous tool to not only disengage a horse’s hindquarters, it is also part of how to teach a horse to sidepass.

There are more “quick to do” horse training tips you can do. These are but a few examples of what you can accomplish even if you have just minutes a day.

About the Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author
of several best selling horse training and horse care books.
For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com.
He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training
methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.